This picture or the caption doesn't tell the full story.
When I was in the Maldives over the Summer, I signed up for a surfing excursion at the resort. Never realizing, they drop you off from a boat into the OPEN OCEAN. If you enlarge the picture you can see how far away the waves are.
Once I discovered what I had gotten myself into, I had two choices, stay on the boat or go for it. I didn't come this far to stay on the stinking boat, right?? Now, a lot of is us do this. Not just on vacation, but in life. Once we realize how much work something involves, we play it safe, we don't give it our all, we stay on the boat.
Once I paddled out, I caught one glorious wave, then a set of 6 or huge rogue waves came in and completely caught me off guard (the guides told this could happen afterwards) I waited for it to stop, and then I went back to catching my kind of waves again.
Later on, the head surf dude asked me how I stayed so calm? I told him "what good would have freaking out have done? I didn't know if 2 more giant waves were coming or 4, either way they were going to do what they were going to do. They only thing I could decide was my reaction to them. I knew I wanted to stay in the water, and this is what happens sometimes. Did you see one I caught at the end??" ♀️