"Hide yo kids, hide yo wife" - Antoine Dodson, or as AwesomeFramers say "hide yo wane, hide yo crown" . .
Our workflow for walls is generally I do the layout and plating, and Kyle cuts headers and pre-builds king stud/trimmers. We use Doug Fir here in the PNW which often will have a wane to it (named after John Wayne's brother Bruce I think). Nail them together wane facing wane and opposing crown. We cut trimmers out of studs so the depth is the same. He's slightly angling the nails toward each other so they don't stick out and tear clothes and skin. . . .
This is framing 101, but it is amazing visiting other framing jobs and this isn't done. Makes it easy for our router to follow the opening on the outside, and the roto zip to follow on the inside for the drywall hangers. . . '
Washington State has adopted the International Energy Conservation Code. Currently this means we need to meet an air tightness number of 5 or less @ACH50. For the last few years we've hired others to do the blower door testing, but since we want to be under 3ACH50 we (@pioneerbuildersinc) went ahead and bought a blower door kit. It will be a requirement here to be under 3 before too long. . . .
Among the advantages to us as the builder, is that with a good air tightness number we don't have to spend additional money on windows or increased insulation in the floor. It also means we can differentiate ourselves from competitors. . . .
On this house we used Zip System and taped all seams. After the "foam and seal", which has to be done before framing inspection and is done by the insulation contractor, my brother and brother in law go through and add caulk and foam to seal up penetrations and apply Dow Great Stuff Drywall Gasket. After the lid is hung, they get into the attic and further seal around can lights, and anywhere daylight shows though. We are just getting started on this process and it'll be interesting to see where we are at in a year. . . .
Yesterday we started at 4.5ACH50 and left at 3.5ACH50. The CFM number we were getting consistently was 995-1000. I'm hoping after all the finishes are in that we get under 3ACH50. Go to www.jlconline.com and seach "air sealing". Also check @risingerbuild for moreover information. .
Here in the west it is generally standard practice to sheathe our walls before lifting, at least when possible. This is basically a form a panelization. Since we cut our plates at the same time, they are always identical, therefore when the diagonals are equal, we have a perfect rectangle. In Euclidean plane geometry, a rectangle is a quadrilateral with four right angles, parallel sides are equal length. . . .
Therefore when the floor is level, whatever is perpendicular to the floor is plumb. In this case we were able to sheathe the stairway wall without getting on ladders. The benefits to this method, are speed, quality, much lower impact on the body, and safety. . . .
Why sheathe vertically? Because according to the IRC all panel edges must be blocked. By using a 9' or larger sheet on a 9' wall, we have zero extra work to block the panel edges, the plates provide that. If sheathing is applied horizontally and the edges are UNBLOCKED you only have a nail every 16" along the long edge of the sheathing, versus in our case every 6". This is means the wall has a lower shear capacity, 7 nails along the 8' sheet (if horizontal) vs 17 nails along the 8' edge hung vertically. (https://www.apawood.org/publication-search?q=E30-Full&tid=1) page 51,54 .
We are framing down the street from this house that we built in summer 2013. They show another advantage of sheathing your walls on the ground, prebuild the closed soffits. For this house we ran our heelstand on the rafters at the outside of sheathing so we could butt the soffit framing. . .
Another advantage of prebuilding soffits, is that you don't need as much bracing, the soffit keeps the wall straight. . . .
Its funny, this was when @keenutility first sent us shoes to try out. Those shoes, Kyle calls them clown shoes, were grippy and had safety toes, but boy were they funky looking. . .
Nearly every wall we frame, we sheathe before lifting. If for no other reason, this is safer (also faster, better quality, etc). To cut out windows/doors always use a router. This leaves scrap with perfect edges, the openings are perfect and it is faster. . .
My dad (business owner) is OCD about using scrap, so we adjust to use the scrap as best we can. I would say we are 5% or less on sheathing scrap. In fact we framed a job for another builder who had two identical houses and lumber packs side by side. Our job had 15 sheets leftover compared to the other framer. Nothing special to accomplish that, but the router does help. . .
On this house we left the sheathing 3" above the topplates to fit under the rafter tails Our engineer calls for nailing 6"oc on all edges and in the field since we are framing 24" oc. The one seam that was wet I quickly dried with a propane torch. Tapes the seams and don't forget to J roll or @risingerbuild will give you a failing grade
Framing 24" oc with 104 5/8" studs. Our process is to start with windows and then fill in studs. Our goal as a company is to minimize framing lumber in the walls, so under the sill against the trimmers (jack studs) we don't put cripples. They aren't needed and lower the thermal resistance of the wall. . . .
Our standard header detail is a 4x10 w/ 2x6 under it to fur out for drywall. 2" rigid insulation will pack out the header. We don't install partitions (which for us are CA corners-2 studs not 3) but rather will nail up scrap after all the walls are up. Doing volunteer work at Warwick NY a few years ago got me in the habit of tossing unusable scrap as I go, store the rest in wall cavities. It is usually more efficient to precut all window and door packages, but not for us. We frame each gable wall as a rake wall, install all the trim and siding, so that takes up space. It is better for us to get them all up and then frame standard height walls. This also allows us to use up all the scrap left over from the rake wall as cripples for the windows. We use everything larger than about 12" long. . . .
We don't notch out for intersecting walls. Continuous double top plates are stronger, When we frame interiors we'll use a Simpson TP35 or 37 to connect the walls. In addition we'll pre-install the 16" LP Vented soffit on this wall (after sheathing it) before lifting it. . . .
Back in 2012 we were reviewing fall protection harnesses for @jlconline and @toolmagazine. My favorite was the Super Anchor Deluxe 3D harness. Especially because I can attach my @diamondback.toolbelts Denali bags to the belt. Kyle prefer's the Exofit harness. In this photo he was wearing the @superanchorsafety harness. . .
This was a Saturday morning in November, freezing cold and everything was frosty. 5/8" plywood on an 8-12 about 20' in the air at the eaves, and about 30' to the ground from the ridge. His @keenutility boots were grippy enough, but we quit after this section was sheathed. . .
As a 2 man framing crew who have worked together since 2005 we have a routine when it comes to a lot of tasks. Sheathing a floor is one of them. Our approach is to take advantage of each person's strengths. Kyle has the longer reach and I don't mind packing material. . .
My brother calls me Donkey (from Shrek) and that's true, I'm a very good mule (not as cute as Howdy @anneofalltrades ). Kyle does the gluing, I do the packing, Kyle beats them into place, I do the fastening, Kyle does the gluing, I do the packing, Kyle beats them into place, I do the fastening. Following that order means little down time. There is some obvious overlap, but we learned a long time ago with a larger crew to assign each person a role and then become a production line.
One thing I like to do using the screw gun is to scatter the strips of screws. I don't like trying to keep them in my bags because inevitably they get caught on the cord and fall out. @fastenmasterpro I need a cordless screw gun. What is this 2016 or something? . .
With @toolsmagazine we are going to start working on a laser distance tool review. Back in 2007 we were using Stabila laser distance tools after @GaryKatz1 recommended we try them. They worked very well, but we couldn't see them in the daylight very well. I bought this @boschtoolsna model and we started using it Friday to measure in the studs for a rake wall. It worked very well, though in this application it is better to set it on the floor to shoot. . .
Our method for framing rake walls is to frame the perimeter and then measure the studs in. This works well when everything is wet. While one guy is cutting everything he can based on math, the other guy lays out and starts assembling the pieces. This tool makes it faster to get lengths. . .
We've been using the @fastenmasterpro PAMFast gun for the last year. We bought this gun after the rep came out and demontrated it. It is fast and reliable, sometimes it doesn't advance the strip, but I have no complaints using this. . .
I have a love/hate relationship with Advantech, I love the product, hate installing it. It is heavy and hard on nail guns, but that is what makes it such a great product. We've found its faster to install using a screw gun than dealing with nails jamming, or breaking. Bonus, this makes for a better floor, stiffer and silent. AwesomeFramers believe in AweseomFLOORS . . .
Busted out a tube of PL Premium, warmed in the forklift, and compared to the Advantech Subfloor Foam to Gel. Kyle's time was 2:30 for the same run using the hand glue gun, vs :29 for the foam gun. . . .
I know what we'll pick every time. We also kept track and figure that 1 can of foam equals 6 28oz tubes of PL. Cost is about a wash, but clearly the time savings make up for it. Plus a better connection. . . .
The @makitatools 36v chainsaw is our preferred tool for cutting I Joists. Except for blocking and rim, everything is cut (preferably gang cut) with the chainsaw. The brake on this saw stopes the chain within a few seconds, and while it has quite a bit torque, it is very easy to control. . . .
For cantilevers we installed the joists long, block them, then snap a line parallel with the back of the house and not the wall below. This corrects for any errors that crept in while framing walls and during plumbing & aligning. . .
The key to a nice flat floor when you are framing off a slab is to assume the slab is all over the map. We shoot the corners in with a laser at all our outside walls, run a string and touch all the studs to that. The tops will be nice and flat even if the concrete is wavy. Skip this step if the foundation is level and flat. Anytime we frame off a slab though for interior walls we run chalklines to the underside of exterior walls and then touch the studs to that chalkline. . .
Mark the corner of the stud and cut by eye. Any framing carp should easily be able to cut square without using a speed square. I'll be honest, I can't stand framing this way, but its the best way to achieve a flat floor or ceiling above. This video is from Thursday. Today it was so wet that as I marked studs to the chalkline I had to immediately square that mark with my square and pencil, the chalk line was more a stripe. Also I had to pull off the top plate, I held it back and should have hung it out . .
Sometimes the hero shot is an outtake or few . . .
Turn back Thursday to March 2013. The sun came out and we sweated, oh glorious sweat! I wonder if we'll ever seen the sun and the moisture on my face will be not rain but sweat. .
End of the day Friday, we decided to get some jumping pictures. Never did get it and it was time to start the weekend . .
Follow up to yesterday's post. Kyle is marking the mudsill by setting it in place and drawing a center line, then measuring off the snapped line to the center of the bolt. Simpson allows 1/16" over sized hole, so that is what we stick to. I had the Big Foot Tools bolt hole marker, and while it did work well, it wasn't for me. When we have to install 2x6 sill on a 6" wall, its hard to hold the PT and the bolt hole marker. . .
I know some guys will try and set the sill on top, give it a good strike so the bolt marks sill, but we find this way works just fine. What is getting annoying though is that all our plate stock is coming out at odd numbers, 5 11/16" or 5 3/4" and though we try and account for this, you can see the corner in this video is a little off. . .
This Makita drill is about 3 years old. I'm telling yall, cordless tools are the cat's meow! . .
Started a new frame today. Simpson Strongtie in their "General Notes" states "Anchor bolt nut should be finger tight plus 1⁄3 to 1⁄2 turn with a hand wrench, with consideration given to possible future wood shrinkage. Care should be taken not to over-tighten the nut. Impact wrenches should not be used" . .
I'm using the mid torque impact wrench from @milwaukeetool and it has plenty of power for us to drive structural screws. I feel comfortable using in this application because I'm not over tightening the nuts. I drive the nut until the washers sits without spinning, then stop. For this house I tightened down 53 nuts on a 4.0ah battery and had half the power left. Cordless tools rock! . .
The socket is a Dude Tools Deep Socket, bought this one on Amazon. Seriously, don't over tighten the nuts, it stresses the bolt and the concrete. . .